Geneva Watch Days, a major event in the watchmaking industry, saw a record turnout this year, with nearly 70 exhibitors taking part. Launched in 2020 as an informal and friendly get-together for industry pros, this event has grown into an essential platform requiring meticulous organisation. Emerging brands are particularly attracted to it because of its lower costs, but the move to a larger format raises questions about the future of the unique atmosphere it has created.

Advent of emerging brands

A wave of distinctive new brands stands out for their disruptive approach and their focus on neo-vintage styles. These brands often have two things in common:

• Aggressive pricing: With models typically priced between CHF 500 and 2500, they favour affordable movements (Myota, Seagull, Sellita) and simple designs.
• Stylistic homogeneity: Their products do not involve much creativity, consisting of models inspired by the 1940s-1960s, making them rather uniform on the market.

Perceived value and marketing strategy

While the intrinsic quality of the products is often limited (movements of average precision without elaborate finishings), one thing these brands do invest in is storytelling. This allows them to appeal not only to young, novice buyers, but also to collectors looking for an aesthetic piece at a lower price. These products are more like ‘affordable experiences’ than prestigious collector’s items.

Challenges and opportunities

These neo-vintage and disruptive brands play an interesting role:

• Impact on the industry: They are popularising mechanical watchmaking among a new public, although their economic impact is still marginal.
• Potential limitations: The lack of major innovation and their dependence on reproductions could limit their long-term growth.
• Contribution to diversification: They enrich the market by exploring niches and revitalising forgotten brands.

Innovation and sustainability

Innovation varies considerably between these new brands:

• Futuristic startups: For example, they use bold designs combined with simple technical resources.
• Ecological commitment: For example, they deploy sustainable and avant-garde watchmaking techniques and technologies.
• Balanced approach: After getting off to a disruptive start, some of them are adopting a more traditional path focused more on local workshops.

Conclusion: opportunities and uncertainties

These emerging brands represent a fascinating phenomenon in the watchmaking industry. While they’re certainly a breath of fresh air and are democratising access to mechanical watches, their future will depend on their ability to innovate and differentiate themselves sufficiently from established players. Their current role, although marginal, contributes to the overall dynamics of the industry. This synthesis highlights the tension between tradition and innovation, as well as the prospects for this booming segment.

Extract from the AF. Watch Report, published by AF. Luxury Consulting